Islamic Cairo

Today we toured Islamic Cairo. We hit up the oldest, still standing, still original material mosque in Egypt, the Mosque/school of Sultan Hussan, and the epic house of Al-Suhaymi. The best part was climbing to the top of the first mosque. Later on, we finally convinced our teacher Hasnaa, who spent the day with us, to go to a shisha bar with us! Later on, we went to a giant park in the middle of Cairo. It was beautiful, and we watched the sun set. The vast amount of visible pollution was a bit of a mood killer, but all the green around us was worth it. Miggy and I just watched Lord of War, excellent movie. Five more days in Egypt and counting.

Alexandria, The Citadel, and The Cinema

On Thursday we had an arabic test and then the sexes separated. Girls got to go learn cooking secrets from Abdo's wife and the guys just got to do their own thing, which means bagel sandwiches and finding ourselves a soccer wahled and whatnot. Jimmy, Conner, and I bought musical instruments from a vendor for 5 pounds each. We made some nice music but got showed up by Katie who can somehow play raindrops on roses. Damn the musically talented. Also, the rice guy at Metro was wicked nice that night.

On Friday we got to go to Alexandria. It was a three hour bus ride and we stopped at this wicked weird food/hellish zoo area, which was a combination of these nice, giant pastries with honey and an odd collection of animals. There were cock fights on the paths, a large collection of dog breeds, lions, tigers, ostriches, and more. Frightening, but better condition than the Cairo zoo.

Seeing the Mediterranean Sea was spectacular. It makes me nostalgic for summer at home. Our first stop was at this awesome castle, that reminded me of exploring Fort Stark, which was an immense amount of fun to climb up and explore. We had lunch at a nice Sea Food place and I got an excellent sea bass. The Library of Alexandria was pretty cool too. It was giant but far too much museum packed into what should be a free area. The planetarium closed as we got there but the Sadat museum was open, got to see the uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated. We also made friends with a couple of wahleds and just soaked in the beautiful seaside sights. Alexandria beats Luxor in my book.

Today was a free day that Miggy, Zack, Nick, and I used to check out the Citadel, the largest mosque in the Arab world (and presumably all the world). On the cab ride there we learned a fun new football cheer, Wahad Wahad, Teta Teta, Zamelek Zamelek, Telata Telata. The architecture was breathtaking and the grounds were so expansive it took forever to explore. We had a great view of the entire city and I managed to acquire a nice Egyptian ashtray to give to someone as a souvenir (and I didn't even get my hand chopped off). The military museum was closed to us because there were important officials there, despite the bs time increments the guards kept telling us as we waited for 45 minutes, and the police museum was utterly odd. While trying to get a taxi back, we were ambushed by a old taxi driver with slicked back hair yelling, "Thirty! Thirty!" and then trying to take Miggy's and Zack's hats as payment. We ended up finding a different taxi.

After we got back, and a three hour nap later, Tori, Caitlin, and I managed to get some awesome Lentil soup at Cafe Noir and then headed to see Nightmare on Elm Street with a bunch of people. It started off with a blank screen and the musical accompaniment of a high school dance (some old Akon, Eminem, and Ludacris) and even through in a surprise Intermission right before someone almost died. It was nice to have popcorn though.

Zoos and Dancing and Men in Black Suits

So yesterday, after class, about ten of us had the unique pleasure of visiting the Cairo zoo. The most accurate way to describe the city's official zoo is decrepit and mildly horrifying. All the animals looked emaciated and even the paths we were walking on looked worse than some of the back alleys we've been through, but hey, it's Egypt. We had two of the guards go with us (oh yeah, we have guards go with our group in a lot of places, either to keep us safe or just keep an eye on us for the government) and I got to subtly shake their hands and palm them their bakshish for escorting us when we got back to the hotel. Feeling like a secret agent, check.

Today, we headed back to the giant market area to see some Sufi dancing which was absolutely mesmerizing. These guys managed to spin in circles for half an hour at a time and the music was excellent. Afterwards, we picked some things up for great prices with our mumtaz-tic haggling skills and later managed to end up in the seedy underbelly of Cairo by taking a wrong turn or two before finding a cab. There were fireworks being sold everywhere.

And the interesting-ish story of the day...Caitlin and I were buying rice and pita bread and such for lunch at the Metro mart and had just gotten up to the register. We happened to be at the one with the cashier who looks like she hates everyone and we ended up getting cut in front of by a large Egyptian man in a black suit (this isn't the most unusual occurrence). As we moved to re-enter the line behind him he told us "I pay for this too" and bought our stuff for us, offered no explanation, and peaced. Did we look like poor, penniless waifs? Did he feel bad for cutting in front of us? Are we somehow that charming? The world may never know.

Niiiiiiiiiick

Another day goes by in Egypt; trips to Metro Mart to buy rice and pita bread and some fruit, learning the F-bomb in arabic (it's actually a common name and happens to be someone in our class), and some van ride karaoke. We went to St. Andrews Refugee Center today and learned about a potential co-op providing legal counseling/semi-social working to refugees primarily from Sudan. It was an intriguing looking job, but I'm still leaning away from NGO (plus, Cairo is nice but I'm not sure sixth months works here for me). Just picked up my laundry and some groceries and now to do some legitimate work and then off exploring per usual.

P.S. - The fun word of the day is Niick.

Luxor and the Arab League

The overnight train to Luxor on Thursday was utterly sketchy. The food was less than mildly edible, mystery meat and rancid-ish tahina. The rice was good though and thankfully we brought a bit of a picnic. The ride was entertaining though. When we arrived in Luxor we went straight Karnak Temple and another one. The architecture was pretty awesome and most of it was still standing. Then we went to the hotel with a pool on the Nile and poolside bar. We wasted the day by poolside and on a nice boat ride (stopping at banana island of course). The restaurant we went to was easily the worst food and service combination yet and the people in Luxor just would not stop trying to sell you things, way worse than normal.

The next day we went to Habu Temple, Al-Deir Al-Bahari Temple, Hatshepsut's Temple, and the Valley of the Kings. The temples were great to be at but after a while they all seem to look the same. The Valley of the Kings was a new experience. The tombs were great but, as with everything we've visited, its hard to tell how much was ancient Egyptian and how much was restoration. Also, napping by the pool/Nile is awesome and we're all somewhat sun burned. The security for the flight back was a joke. We walked through with water bottles, pointy objects, pretty much whatever, right onto the plane. Absolutely inspiring talks about religion and education with Cynthia on the flight. She is adorable.

Today, we went to the Arab League and got to talk with the Chief of Cabinet. He actually answered most of our questions, which was so nice after the BS we got at the American Embassy, and was one of the best speakers we've heard here. Since then, its been a day of napping and working. It's nice to back in Cairo.

Thursday Updates

Had a test today in arabic, then, lunch at a bagel place (so nice to have bagel sandwich) and a nice Nile walk with a big group. Now just packing up for Luxor. We're taking an overnight train tonight! Off to a nice group dinner somewhere good. Next updates on Saturday.

Bayt-na, fee al'nos al'sharia

The 18th was rather uneventful. It was unfortunately the day Miguel and I moved from the Flamenco to Longchamps. We wished our room a sad farewell only to discover we had somehow gotten an even more beautiful room at Longchamps. Once again with a nice balcony and its even bigger with a much nicer bathroom (the beds are still oddly pushed together). The Egyptian gods must favor Miggy and I or something. We also finally discovered this wonderful Falafel place right near us. 2 Egyptian Pounds for a falafel, less than twenty cents, and you can put fries in it too. Beautiful. A group of us went to an epic place called Bora Bora, right along the Nile. Cailtin and I shared Penne Arabiata and it was easily the best meal I'd had in Cairo. The live dj was a nice touch but the bathrooms were utterly sketchy.

Miguel, Caitlin, and I went to the Egyptian Museum today. It was nice to just walk through it and bask in the ancientness, plus, animal mummies. We took a cab for the first time which was fun. And then, at night, instead of Suffi dancers, because it got all sold out, we chilled in a cool marketplace area.

Phrase of the day - Bayte-na fee al'nos al'sharia - Our house in the middle the street

Yani Yani Yani

Saturday entailed a chance to meet students from Cairo University (the non-American one). The students here were actually Egyptian and we all had excellent discussions on politics, human rights, and pop culture. We managed to snag a thumb drive's worth of popular egyptian music including the best song here (which is only now starting to get tiring), Yani Yani Yani. The CU kids were so much friendlier and down to earth. They actually seemed to care about what they were doing and were generally excited to talk with us. Hopefully we'll see them again before they leave. Felucca Ride! We also went to that awesome hookah bar that night again. We learned some names and made friends.

Today we had an interesting class like usual and then went to an unimpressive restaurant to talk about stuff with Prof. Sullivan. For whatever reason, something from today or yesterday did not agree with me and I ended up missing the football game to get to know the toilet back at the hotel and then fall asleep for five and a half hours. It was all in due time, most everyone's gotten sick so far. Feeling better.

The song we all now know the words to - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=449tYWy277g

Coptic Cairo

Coptic Cairo was interesting. Seeing the ancient mosques and synagogues was cool. Apparently Jesus hid in one as a child or something like that. We took pictures of Zack doing various activities around the temple. NBD (cafe).

Walking through the big mosque we went to was an experience. The girls had to wear head scarves, we had to take our shoes off, etc. We also went to see where the Zabaleen, the largest group of coptic christians and some of the poorest people in Egypt, lived. There was the largest amount of trash I'd ever seen but the church in the mountain was cool, especially the "naturally and miraculously" formed virgin Mary in the roof of the cave. Caitlin and I got to ride back in Abduh's car with Dennis and Cynthia since the vans were filled up. Absolutely epic watching Abduh and Dennis talk back and forth since they've known each other so long, switching back between arabic and english.

When the group got to Abduh's house we were treated to a lavish feast of the biggest turkeys I have ever seen and tons of other food which we gorged ourselves on. We eventually left, after playing an egyptian game that seemed like violent seven-up with Abduh, and went on a sunset felucca ride. Nice way to end the day.

Lazy Friday

We slept in until Nada (Our TA from arabic class at NEU who lives in Cairo) called around one o'clock. Unfortunately, through some type of miscommunication she never showed up to bring us shopping in the markets, where she says we need her because our haggling skills in arabic are subpar. Instead, we just hung out and exchanged life stories and pictures on facebook and such. Went out to get Caitlin a head scarf (or Scarfek) for Coptic Cairo and a beautiful blue dress (which I picked out with my wonderful taste in clothing). Then went to an awesome hookah bar with everyone. Less than 60 cents per hookah, compared to $25 in Boston.

Fun things about Cairo, the driving is crazy. There are no rules, lanes are optional, stop signs don't seem to exist, and the honking is non-stop. It's beautiful and terrifying. Oh yeah, and cross walks aren't really a thing here either. You just walk into traffic wherever and people swerve or stop. There are also stray cats everywhere. Absolutely everywhere.

Late Nights in Cairo

Yesterday, we had our first day of legitimate classes. Our teacher, Haasna, is wicked hilarious and so much fun. She pronounces Miguel's name as "Meegal" and when asked, "What's your name?" "Curtis" "hahahahahahahaha" Apparently, she thinks my name is Curlis. And naturally, Jimmy is "al Mutahaases" (the specialist). She's incredibly nice but totally tools on us, but we rag on her too and she loves us. During break Caitlyn and I decided to see if we could climb the walls until our group's personal security guards(they have large guns) came and we had to pretend we were just looking for cats...... Also, the Egyptian dialect is so much easier than standard.

Later on, we went to the U.S. embassy. It was somewhat disappointing. We listened to some upper level important guy give us complete BS about what they do and how the U.S. has helped. On a side note, he was probably the tallest man I have ever seen. That night was another late one and Conner and I taught Miguel and Caitlyn to play Hearts.

More class today (We have classes Monday through Thursday, 9 am - 1 pm), interesting as usual. Afterwards, we went to see the American University of Cairo. It's a pretty long trip but the campus is lush with fountains and perfect grass everywhere and some absolutely amazing architecture. It was awful. So much waste and the pretentiousness was just seeping out of the campus. The students were nice, but the typical wealthy students that could have been in any American school.

PS - Balcony party tonight!

Pyramids and Such

So Miguel and I slept through our alarm this morning and almost missed the bus to the Pyramids. Thank gods that Mary knocked on our door. We were ready and downstairs within five minutes. We rode camels to the Pyramids, touristy maybe but the most epic thing I've ever ridden in my life. I followed directions and "jumped like an American cowboy". Once on I realized there were no stirrups, unlike most of the other camels, and was told to cross my legs and ride like an arab. No big deal (cafe). My camera died pretty much as I took it out of my bag but enough pictures were taken anyway; dinosaurs in front of the Pyramids, kissing the Sphinx, standing on the camel. As we were leaving the camels guides tried to get extra tips, "something from your heart to mine to make me happy".

Lunch was outstanding. Chilled with C-rapp and had great Egyptian food. There was hardcore nappage going on the rest of the day and from now on Miguel and I are setting at least seven alarms. Off to roam the streets again!

Arrival in Cairo

We got in around 1:30 AM this morning and drove to the hotels (poor Conner's luggage is still in Boston or Frankfurt or somewhere). Most of the arabic language kids are in Longchamps, up the street, but two other pairs and Miguel and I are in the Flamenco with the engineering and photo kids. We literally have the most beautiful room. Somehow, we're on the ninth floor overlooking the Nile with a sizeable personal porch and a pretty big room (the twin beds are pushed together for some reason though, but that happened to other people too, so whatevs). The sight gorgeous and the sleep, finally, was excellent.

This morning, all of us on the arabic portion of the Dialogue went to school for our skill testing. The test kind of raped us all but it's all good now. Most of us are in the higher, group Alif section. We spent most of class exchanging stories from past classes. Our group is pretty awesome. We also picked up some cellphones to contact each other easily and had lunch at No Big Deal cafe. We already have started to talk in arabic to the locals. Great success!

Dinner was at Cafe Noir (aka Money Burger because of a picture outside the restaurant) and we figured out they had karaoke upstairs. There's the chance of going back for Zack's birthday tomorrow. After speaking arabic with one of the workers we took a picture together. He flashed the gang signs, I'm just following his lead. Instead of writing that paper that's due soon Miguel, Caitlyn, Connor, and I have been chilling on our beautiful porch. Now off to roam the streets of Cairo at night and pyramids tomorrow!

PS - Cat Scratch Fever + King Curt Story Time

Fun times in the Airport

Well, our flight got bumped back to 6:40ish so we had some more time to explore the airport. A group of us decided to be adventurous and roam around. Good stuff. The lack of sleep is starting to get to everyone I think. Caitlin and I decided to entertain with intense commentary readings on every newspaper and odd german magazine available. Also, interpretive mood dancing (videos to follow). We've managed to get napping down to a science, sunglasses on and soft music playing. Even C-rapp has been spotted taking a nap. Our departure gate has been changed at least five times and we're now going to be flying Egyptian Air. That should be interesting. Fun quotes from the day, (German security officer) "Open ze bag" and "Zis is naht allowed" and (Miguel) "Curtis lives vicariously through himself." Current music being sung as a group, Don't Stop Believing.

Delays, Delays, Delays

I'm currently writing from the Frankfurt Airport. Our flight out of Boston was delayed by a little over three hours and then we had to take an extra long flight path to avoid the ash cloud that is still coming from that Icelandic volcano. Stupid Iceland. It was a nice flight though, and being stuck for hours led to some beautiful discussions ranging from 90's Nickelodeon shows to dinosaurs to Arrested Development (Steve Holt!). Lufthansa really lives up to its name. Nice drinks, cute german flight attendants, and decent leg room. I watched Up In the Air, read some Man in the White Sharkskin Suit, and slept a bit. Unfortunately, although the farewell lake house party was excellent, only three hours of sleep combined with time zone changes is kind of messing with me. We missed our connecting flight but we're rescheduled for one in five hours! Let's check out what this German airport has to offer...